Plate Info

Precision Epoxy Products

Epoxy Surface Plate

"When Accuracy Matters"

Back to:  Home Page                    e-mail to:  http://mramy@netzero.net

Serving the Motorsports Industry with the only perfectly level and perfectly flat epoxy surface plate system in the industry. Our plate systems can be professionally installed or applied by the do-it-yourselfer  utilizing one of our informative instructional videos. The epoxy plate offers all the advantages of our full floor systems including ease of cleaning, outstanding chemical resistance, excellent scratch and impact resistance with an unbelievable cosmetic value as a bonus.

The Epoxy Surface Plate will become an irreplaceable set-up tool that makes your shop complete. No more using that 'level enough' spot on your floor with location marks to try and achieve accuracy. The Epoxy Surface Plate eliminates any and all guess work by providing a perfectly level and perfectly flat floor surface. We are talking 'Dead Level', not just close. With the Floor Plate Epoxies FP-85 and FP-80, simply pour into a framed out area of any size to produce an exactly level floor surface. Scaling, ride heights, suspension geometry and body work are all performed better on a level surface, index with complete accuracy at any point on the surface plate plane. With the 3-pour design of the Pro Epoxy Surface Plate, any type of graphics, vinyl decals or reference points can be laminated between the final FP-85 color coat and the FP-80 clear top coat pour to create that personal touch with a team logo. Wheeled objects are easily rolled onto the plate surface area with the troweled Santex border ramped from the surface plate plane to the original floor in a matching or contrasting color. The Epoxy Surface Plate has superior flatness and cosmetics for a fraction of the cost over steel plates.

Pro Epoxy Surface Plate Installation Instructions:

1st Day

1. Select location in shop and clear out to expose floor allowing extra space for adjoining epoxy mixing shop.  This will basically be two car stalls or similar size area.  

2. Measure and mark dimensions on floor at corners and chalk lines to establish surface plate perimeter allowing for an extra inch of width and length.

3. With a 3/16 inch masonry bit and a hammer drill, mount 1 to 2 inch 'L' angle aluminum using 6-8 plastic anchors and special  zinc screws to form the retaining walls of the surface plate.

4. Take a rotary saw with masonry blade and cut a 1/4 inch deep groove 4 to 6 inches outside the aluminum perimeter on all sides of the surface plate that needs to be ramped to floor.

5. The floor area inside the plate needs to be prepped.  This may involve additional consulting in some cases, but basically would be tack-ragged with denatured alcohol to clean any contaminates such as oil, grease, etc., then sanded with a rotary floor sander.  The area is then vacuumed for dust and debris.  Additional treatment of expansion joints and/or cracks will be needed.

6. Using standard 2 inch duct tape, tape a waterproofing seal around the inside perimeter of the aluminum and floor.  Area must be water tight to contain the fluid self leveling epoxy. 

7. Now you're ready for the 1st pour of   Floor Plate Epoxy FP-85.  This 2-component, self leveling, pigmented 100% solids epoxy system is mixed and poured to a depth of 1/4 inch at a rate of  6.4 square feet per gallon to create the structural body coat of the surface plate.  This coat will establish the level plane of the surface plate in relation to your concrete floor.

8. Spread epoxy with squeegee or trowel to aid leveling if needed.

9. While the epoxy is leveling and starting its curing cycle, you must assist with air release because of surface tension.  Air bubbles come from several sources and need to be minimized as much as possible; when measuring and pouring epoxy components into containers, when stirring components and when pouring mixed epoxy into surface plate area.  During the 1st pour, air is also released from the concrete as the epoxy penetrates in.  The amount of this air source is determined by the concrete's degree of porosity.  This factor alone makes one pour application impractical as air is still releasing as the epoxy cures.  To release air, take a propane torch and wave the blue flame over the surface like a wand.  This is called torching and you will be able to see the air release.  Mounting of lights around the area will enhance reflection making bubbles more easily seen.  The epoxy is not flammable; however, should you dip the flame into the epoxy, it could leave a charred or burnt looking spot which should be dipped out before continuing, especially on the next two coats.  This is a base coat with no cosmetic concerns.

2nd Day

1. The 1st pour of  FP-85 epoxy has been allowed to cure and you can now see the relation of the floor to the surface plate.  Any high spots of the concrete floor will dome up like islands in a lake.  These areas should be ground down flush with the epoxy plane.  Any low areas of the concrete floor will show at the aluminum perimeter.  It must be determined if the floor area will level with the 2nd coat or should an additional base coat be made.
2. At this point, all foot traffic from now to completion onto surface plate area should be with clean, oil and grease free shoes wiped off on a towel or mat at edge of work area.
3. Sand entire area to profile plate.  Vacuum thoroughly all dust and debris.  Then tack rag with denatured alcohol.
4. Special attention needs to be given to holes in 1st pour left by air bubbles.  Mix a micro batch of epoxy and hand pour to fill; should epoxy continue to flow through hole, it will need to be plugged.
5. Now you are ready for the 2nd pour of   Floor Plate Epoxy.  The FP-85 epoxy is mixed and poured  to a depth of 3/16 inch at a rate of  8.5 square feet per gallon to create the cosmetic color coat of the surface plate.
6. Spread epoxy with squeegee or trowel to aid leveling if needed.
7. This coat must then be rolled with a special "Spiked Roller" to assure a uniform color between batches.
8. Area is then torched to release air.  Air bubbles will be at a minimum with the first pour sealing off the concrete.

3rd Day

1. The 2nd pour of  FP-85 epoxy has been allowed to cure.  Now using the 'L' angle aluminum as a guide, mount the special 3/16 x 1/2 inch 'L' angle zinc strips to the surface plate.  The zinc strips are again mounted using a 3/16 " masonry bit, hammer drill, plastic anchors and screws.  A vacuum is also necessary to clean drill dust as you go to assure proper seating of the zinc.  This strip will reduce the plate size by 1 inch at length and width.
2. After zinc has been mounted, remove "L' angle aluminum and duct tape, then detail perimeter as needed.
3. Grind or sand to clean concrete floor areas between surface plate outer wall and saw cut made the 1st day in floor.
4. Vacuum all dust and debris around work area.  Then tack rag floor perimeter with denatured alcohol.
5. Tape outside perimeter of saw cut with 2" masking tape.  Tape inside perimeter using paper to protect plate.
6. Apply IG-100 Epoxy penetrating primer system to concrete perimeter (Consult Technical Bulletin on IG-100 Epoxy).
7. Trowel apply Epoxy Santex System to create access ramp from surface plate top to flush with concrete floor in matching or contrasting color.  The saw groove made in the concrete allows the  Santex to be troweled flush with the concrete while maintaining proper structural thickness.  The saw groove also creates a detailed "cut-off" point.  Santex is troweled off even with the 3/16" zinc strip lip which will be the surface plate top.
8. After rough troweling into place, pull masking tape off floor only and clean up excess  Santex. Detail trowel to finish access ramp.

4th Day

1. Remove tape and paper from inside perimeter and detail cured Santex as needed with sander, grinder or scrape.
2. Apply team, sponsor, corporate or personal logos or graphics as required.  Reference points or measurements can also be installed if desired.  Anything that you wish laminated underneath the clear top coat would be applied at this time.
3. Tack rag entire surface plate for final cleaning.  Normal scratches in color coat will disappear with clear coat pour; however, discolorations such as  Santex color, shoe or vacuum scuff marks, bugs, etc. will show if not detailed properly.
4. Now you are ready for the 3rd pour of   Floor Plate Epoxy.  The FP-80 2-component, self leveling, clear 100% solids epoxy system is mixed and poured to a depth of 3/16 inch at a rate of  8.5 square feet per gallon to create the perfectly level, perfectly flat chemically resistant cosmetic top coat of the surface plate.
5. Spread epoxy with squeegee or trowel to aid leveling as needed.
6. This coat must then be rolled with a special "Spiked Roller" to assure a uniform blend between batches.
7. Area is then torched to release air.  All air must be released in order to achieve the maximum cosmetic advantages the Pro Surface Plate has to offer.
8. FP-80 epoxy is then brush applied to seal Santex access ramp.  Keep airborne dust, debris, fumes, bugs, etc., to a minimum during this pour.  Surface plate should be allowed to cure for 7  to 10 days  depending on temperature before using to its full capacity.

Items needed for installation available on Plate Shop Check List

For persons installing their own surface plates, mixing instructions outlined in the  FP-85 technical bulletin as well as the Instructional Video further describe the handling, measuring , mixing, pouring, and clean up involved during the Surface Plate installation. You can also install lesser versions of the Pro Plate to suit your needs and budget.  The Surface Plate should also be properly grounded to try and dissipate any static electricity that might be present on dry days. The average plate size at NASCAR shops is 12' x 20' plus 6" access ramp around plate perimeter, this allows for the desired 2 foot work apron around the perimeter of the car. Plates can be installed at any size desired. Please note that all coverage's in this bulletin are based on the floor area being covered having a variance of no more than 1/2" between the highest and lowest points, while our professional installations are based on 5/8". Should your floor be off more than this, additional material and/or pours will be necessary to achieve the desired results.

Caring for your Plate: The Epoxy Surface Plate can be cleaned as you would any floor area in your shop. For detail cleaning plastic cleaners that are non-abrasive and offer anti-static and scratch resistance are recommended. The plate will show scratches over a period of time. Avoid dragging heavy and/or sharp objects over plate surface. Plastic or rubber feet for jack stands and plastic or rubber wheels for jacks used on the plate will minimize scratching. Scratches on plate are only cosmetic and do not effect it's primary use as a set-up tool.  

What about Cost?  To have your Pro Plate installed by Precision Epoxy, the cost is $40.00 per square foot plus travel expenses to your location. To install your own Epoxy Surface Plate, prices range form $14.00 to $35.00 per square foot depending on situation and version of plate desired; give Precision Epoxy a call with the type and size plate you have in mind and we will gladly give you a current quote to supply you with your epoxy materials, application tools and instructional video.

Important for do-it-yourselfers: Every reasonable precaution is taken in the manufacture of all products and compiling of data to assure that they comply with Rock Art's exacting standards. We assume no liability for damages of any kind and no guarantee of results using these products or data is given because every possible variation in the method of their use or conditions under which they are applied cannot be anticipated. User accepts products "AS IS" and without warranties, expressed or implied. The suitability of a product for an intended use shall be solely up to the user. We are not responsible if the product should be used in a manner to infringe any patent held by others.

Click here for: Plate Shop Check List  *  Plate Order Form  *  Plate Photos  *  Magazine Articles

Back to:  Home Page            e-mail to:  http://mramy@netzero.net